Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Lemony Summer Squash Soup

I've been in love with yellow summer squash as of late and I think that it mainly has to do with its sunny hue. As far as I'm concerned there's not a discernible difference in flavor between it and zucchini but perhaps the vast, superhuman amounts of zucchini I've eaten these last few summers have required that I take a break.

I didn't know if this would be the case or not but I got it in my head that because lemons and yellow squash share the same vibrant shade, they might also go well together in a recipe. I think this is officially so for this simple soup is short on ingredients but full of brilliant flavor.

I used a mandoline to speedily slice the squash and sauteed them with some sweet onions in a little butter and olive oil. The flavors were enriched with a touch of sweet curry powder and made hearty with the addition of some fragrant, cooked brown basmati rice. A thin slice of lemon floating on top of it all was pure happiness.

For 4-6 servings:

  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 small onion, chopped
  • 2 medium summer squash
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon sweet curry powder
  • 4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
  • 1-1/2 cups cooked long-grain brown rice
  • The juice of 1 lemon
  • 6 thin slices lemon, seeds removed
Heat the butter and oil in a pot over medium heat. When melted, add the onion and saute until soft and translucent, about 10 minutes.

While the onion is cooking, trim both ends of the squash and then in half lengthwise. Thinly slice into 1/8-inch half moons - a mandoline makes short work of this task. You should have about 3 cups of squash.

Add the squash to the pot and saute for 2 minutes. Add the salt and curry powder and cook for 1 minute more. Add the stock, bring to a boil over medium-high heat, and cook over a simmer, for 10 minutes. Add the rice and simmer for 10 minutes more. Stir in the lemon juice.

Ladle into shallow bowls and float a slice of lemon over the top.

Saturday, August 14, 2010

Cantaloupe Agua Fresca

I found myself with 3 cantaloupes on my kitchen counter. I had already eaten one and was not enticed by the idea of eating 3 more plain. Last summer I made this Cantaloupe Ginger Sorbet which was fantastic, but opted for an agua fresca instead.

An agua fresca (fresh water), most commonly found in Mexico, is just fruit blended with water and sugar to make a super refreshing beverage. I used honey instead of sugar and found the peach-colored drink to capture the melon in all its juicy, summery glory. The pinch of salt and acidic lime cuts the honey sweetness in just the right way.

Use more or less honey to taste as it really depends on how sweet the cantaloupes are to begin with. This would be great with a summer brunch or barbecue and comes together in no time flat.

For about 6 servings:

  • 7 cups cantaloupe cut into 3-inch pieces
  • 3 cups cold water
  • 1/4 - 1/3 cup honey, to taste
  • Pinch of salt
  • The juice of 1 lime
  • Lime wedges, for garnish

In a food processor combine the cantaloupe and 1 cup of the water. Process until very smooth, about 1 minute. Pour the cantaloupe puree through a sieve into a bowl, discarding any solids. Stir in the honey, lime juice, and remaining 2 cups of water. Refrigerate for one hour and then serve, over ice, garnished with lime wedges.

The agua fresca will keep for 2 days.

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Chipotle Kale Stew

I decided to rebel against the sticky, muggy, Midwest heatwave and turn the stove on. I had some beautiful, healthful kale just waiting to be eaten along with some Minnesota sweet corn and thought that perhaps I could turn these into a Mexican-flavored summer stew. I added some Yukon Gold potato for some extra heartiness, and those three vegetables laced with the chipotle's subtle smokiness and heat proved to be a perfect combination.

I don't have kale growing in the garden this year and I miss it. There's something about its superfood status that increases my enjoyment of eating it. A large bunch cooks down nicely yet retains it's chew and dark green minerality. The sweet corn is so excellent right now and the crunchy kernels don't need to be added to this stew until the very end where they barely require a simmer.

Don't forgo the pepitas and limes. Although this stew is great on its own, the nutty seeds and tart citrus finish things off nicely. I drank a tall glass of peach iced tea to fend off the heat and had some super watermelon for dessert. I suspect this might be a perfect summer meal.

              For 4-6 servings:

              • 2 tablespoons canola oil
              • 1 cup chopped onion
              • 3 cloves garlic, chopped
              • 2 cups cubed yukon gold potato
              • 8 cups kale, center ribs discarded, chopped into bite-sized pieces
              • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
              • 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
              • 4 cups chicken or vegetable stock
              • 1 chipotle, finely chopped from a can of chipotles in adobo sauce
              • 1-2 teaspoons adobo sauce from can
              • 3 ears sweet corn, kernels cut off the cob
              • 1/4 cup raw pepitas, toasted
              • Limes, quartered, for garnish

              Heat the oil over medium heat in a large pot. Add the onion and garlic and saute until translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the potato, kale, salt and cumin and cook, stirring frequently for a few minutes more.

              Turn the heat up to medium-high and stir in the stock. Add the chipotle and adobo sauce. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat, allowing to simmer, covered. Simmer for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally until the potato is cooked through. Add the corn and simmer, uncovered for 2 minutes more. Taste, and add more salt if desired.

              Ladle into bowls and garnish with the pepitas and a squeeze of lime.

              Thursday, August 5, 2010

              Sour Cherry Tart

              My good friend and frequent guestblogger, Eric M, recently took a trip to Door County, Wisconsin. Door County is known for it's storied cherry history dating back to the 1800's so I was undoubtedly pleased when he presented me with a large jar of unsweetened sour cherries in their own juice a few days ago. Each time I passed by the kitchen I would glance at the ruby red fruit and start to wonder how I would use them up.

              While I brainstormed, I opened the cherry jar and fixed myself a cocktail made from Malibu rum, cherry juice, a couple cherries, sparkling water and a squeeze of lime. That was nearly worthy of a post it was so good. In fact, if you happen to have all those things on hand, you should really go fix yourself a Cherry Malibu Cocktail right now.

              Instead I decided on a tart featuring a puff pastry base, a layer of honey sweetened crème fraîche, the cherries of course, and a saucy cherry syrup to finish. This tart does require some steps but is quite simple and pleasant to make, not to mention, the final result is dazzling.

              For one tart:
              • 1/2 cup unsweetened cherry juice
              • 1/4 cup sugar
              • 1 tablespoon kirsch
              • 8 ounce sheet frozen puff pastry, thawed
              • 1/2 cup crème fraîche
              • 1 tablespoon honey
              • 1/4 teaspoon pure almond extract
              • 1/4 cup sliced almonds, lightly toasted
              • 2 cups unsweetened sour cherries in juice (drained, juice reserved)

              In a small saucepan stir together the cherry juice, sugar and kirsch over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil and cook, until reduced by half and syrupy, about 5-7 minutes. Set aside and allow to cool to room temperature.

              Heat the oven to 350 degrees. On a lightly floured surface, unfold the sheet of puff pastry. Sprinkle lightly with flour and roll out to a dimension of 14" x 10". Moisten a 1/2-inch border with cold water and fold the edges over to create a frame around the pastry. Make sure to press down on all four corners lightly to make sure it's sealed. Prick the pastry all over with a fork. Transfer the pastry to a parchment-lined baking sheet and place in the center of the oven. Bake until just golden, about 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and set on a wire rack to cool.

              While the pastry is cooling, whisk together the crème fraîche, honey and almond extract until smooth. Measure out the cherries and set over a colander. Squeeze the cherries gently with your hands to get rid of most of the juice. Reserve the juice for another use.

              When the pastry is completely cooled, spread the crème fraîche evenly over it. Scatter the cherries over the top and then sprinkle with the almonds. Drizzle the cherry syrup evenly over the tart, reserving any unused syrup for another use. Serve the tart immediately, sprinkled with some confectioner's sugar if desired.

              Monday, August 2, 2010

              Smoky Grilled Salmon with Pickled Fennel

              This is dish is all about contrasts: sweet and smoky grilled salmon, chilled, crisp pickled fennel with a touch of rich and spicy ginger mayonnaise. Although the list of ingredients and steps may seem fussy, it really was a breeze to put together.

              I started out by wanting to quickly pickle a perfect summer bulb of fennel but wasn't sure what to pair it with until I saw some beautifully coral-hued sockeye salmon at the store. I thought that the natural sweetness of the salmon would be the perfect foil for the vinegary bite of the fennel.

              The smokiness of the salmon is achieved by rubbing the fillet with pimentón, a smoked Spanish paprika and one of my favorite ingredients. The salmon cooks quickly on a hot grill and the brown sugar in the dry rub creates a caramelized crust on the exterior. The plate is finished with a touch of some mayonnaise and a scattering of fresh chopped herbs.

              For 4 servings:

              Pickled Fennel:

              • 1 small bulb fennel
              • 2 teaspoons kosher salt
              • 1/4 cup sugar
              • 1/4 cup water
              • 1/3 cup rice vinegar

              Trim both ends of the fennel and thinly slice it on a mandoline. Place the fennel in a colander and sprinkle the salt over it. With your hands, toss the salt with the fennel and place the colander in the sink to drain for 30 minutes.

              Meanwhile, whisk together the sugar, water and vinegar. Rinse the fennel with cold water very thoroughly to remove the salt. Place the fennel in the bowl with the vinegar mixture and refrigerate for one hour or up to 2 days.

              Salmon:

              • 1 pound salmon fillet
              • 1 tablespoon brown sugar
              • 1/2 teaspoon pimentón
              • 1/4 teaspoon salt
              • 1/8 teaspoon turmeric
              • 2 teaspoons canola oil

              In a small bowl, stir together the brown sugar, pimentón, salt, and turmeric. Coat the salmon with the oil and then rub the sugar mixture into the flesh of the fish.

              Preheat a grill until hot. Add the salmon, skin side down and cook for about 3 minutes. Flip and cook for a couple minutes more, depending on thickness, or until just cooked through.

              Ginger Mayonnaise:

              • 1 tablespoon mayonnaise
              • 1/2 teaspoon fresh grated ginger + juice
              • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint or basil

              Stir together the mayonnaise and ginger. Set aside.

              To assemble: Place the fish onto 4 plates and spoon a little of the mayo amongst each plate. Top with the fennel and sprinkle with the herbs. Serve immediately.

              Thursday, July 29, 2010

              Heat Wave Spaghetti

              The other day the heat index was approaching 110 degrees and the sky was that tornadoey yellow-green color that is always a bit alarming. A somewhat brief dog walk around the neighborhood resulted in my shirt clinging to my back with sweat (gross) so I quickly proclaimed it an inside day after that.

              After I spent the day not moving and not cooking, instead consuming peaches, cheez-its, kalamata olives, cereal, and frozen yogurt, I thought it was time to be resourceful and actually make something for dinner. I had this great spicy Capicola ham I had used as part of a cheese platter earlier in the week, bunches of fresh basil in the garden, and a few other ingredients I figured would compliment both.

              The cooking here is minimal which was the whole point. A quick boil of the pasta, some olive oil warmed enough to make it aromatic with the garlic and ham, and the rest tossed together is all it takes. I was eating good in about 15 minutes. The golden raisins may seem an odd touch but they elevate the dish and work well with the savory flavors.

              For 2 main dish servings:
              • 2 tablespoons golden raisins
              • 2 tablespoons Marsala wine or sherry
              • 8 ounces whole wheat thin spaghetti
              • 1/3 cup olive oil
              • 3 garlic cloves, chopped
              • 4 thin slices hot Capicola ham
              • 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
              • 2 cups fresh basil leaves + 8-10 small basil leaves for garnish
              • 1 tablespoon pine nuts, toasted
              • Shavings of Parmesan, to taste

              In a small bowl, combine the raisins and marsala or sherry. Set aside to soak. Boil the pasta until just al dente. While the pasta is boiling, heat a skillet over medium heat. Add the olive oil and when warm, add the garlic and capicola. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt and the red pepper flakes. Cook for a couple minutes, then add the raisins, along with the marsala or sherry. Keep the oil warm over low heat until the pasta is cooked.

              When the pasta is done, drain it and return it to the pot it was cooking in over medium heat. Pour the oil mixture over the pasta and toss to coat. Add in the 2 cups of basil leaves and toss the pasta until the basil is wilted, about a minute or two. Season it with freshly ground black pepper and another pinch of salt if necessary.

              Pour the pasta onto a serving platter. Scatter the pine nuts and small basil leaves over the top. Shave some parmesan over each serving.